Hue's most authentic local neighbourhood — a residential district south of the Perfume River where travellers live alongside Hue families, eat at neighbourhood pho stalls, explore traditional garden houses and experience the city as it really is
Flight Time
11–13h to Da Nang (DAD) or Hanoi (HAN), then 1–3h by road or train to Hue
Best Time
February to April (dry, warm, best cycling weather); June to August (hot and dry, peak season); avoid October to November (heavy rains)
Country
Vietnam
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An Cuu is the best base in Hue for travellers who want an authentic local experience — staying in a traditional garden house, eating at neighbourhood street food stalls, cycling to the Royal Tombs through village streets and experiencing Hue as a living city rather than a heritage attraction. It is quieter and more residential than the Perfume River embankment and Pham Ngu Lao areas, with fewer tourist facilities but a more genuine sense of place.
Getting around: An Cuu is best explored by bicycle — the flat terrain, quiet streets and density of interesting sites within cycling distance make it ideal. Bicycle hire is available from most guesthouses (approximately £2–3 per day). The Citadel is 20 minutes by bicycle (north across the Phu Xuan Bridge), the Perfume River embankment is 10 minutes, and the Royal Tombs are 30–60 minutes depending on which tomb you are visiting.
Accommodation: An Cuu has a growing number of boutique guesthouses and homestays in traditional garden houses — these are the most distinctive accommodation options in Hue and book up quickly in peak season. Several mid-range hotels are also available in the district.
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Call 01282 960 460The garden houses, neighbourhood markets, Royal Tomb cycling routes, authentic street food and genuine local life that make An Cuu the most rewarding district in Hue for curious travellers.
An Cuu and the surrounding southern suburbs of Hue are home to the finest concentration of traditional Vietnamese garden houses (nha vuon) in the city — walled compounds of wooden houses set in gardens of ancient trees, ornamental plants, lotus ponds and vegetable plots, built by the Nguyen court's mandarins and officials as retreats from the formality of court life. Several of the finest garden houses in this area have been converted into boutique guesthouses and homestays — staying in a nha vuon is one of the most distinctive accommodation experiences in Vietnam. The houses are typically single-storey wooden structures with carved screens, lacquered columns and tiled roofs, surrounded by gardens that have been cultivated for generations. Waking up in a garden house in An Cuu — to the sound of birds in the ancient trees and the smell of incense from the family altar — is a genuinely different experience from a hotel.
The An Cuu wet market (cho An Cuu) is one of the most authentic market experiences in Hue — a neighbourhood market serving the local community rather than tourists, with stalls selling fresh vegetables, fish, meat, herbs, spices, street food and household goods. The market is at its most vibrant from 5–8am, when the fresh produce stalls are fully stocked and the food section is serving breakfast — bun bo Hue from pavement stalls, banh mi from the bread sellers and fresh rice paper rolls from the market vendors. The market is a genuine window into daily life in Hue — the conversations between stallholders and regular customers, the bargaining over prices, the careful selection of ingredients — and is completely different from the tourist-oriented markets near the Citadel and the Perfume River.
An Cuu is the ideal base for cycling to the Royal Tombs of the Nguyen emperors — the tombs are scattered along the Perfume River south of the city, and the roads from An Cuu through the southern suburbs are quiet, shaded and beautiful. The route from An Cuu to the Tomb of Tu Duc (the most beautiful of the tombs, set in a garden of frangipani and lotus ponds) takes approximately 30 minutes by bicycle through rice paddies and village streets. The Tomb of Minh Mang (the most formal, with a processional avenue of stone mandarins) and the Tomb of Khai Dinh (the most ornate, with extraordinary mosaic decoration) are further afield (45–60 minutes by bicycle) but the roads are good and the countryside is beautiful. A full day cycling between the tombs — with lunch at a garden house restaurant — is one of the best days out in Hue.
An Cuu's neighbourhood restaurants and street food stalls serve the most authentic Hue cuisine in the city — the dishes here are made for local customers rather than tourists, which means the flavours are more intense, the portions are more generous and the prices are a fraction of those in the tourist areas. The must-eat dishes in An Cuu: bun bo Hue (spicy beef noodle soup) from the pavement stalls that set up from 6am; com hen (rice with tiny river clams, peanuts, herbs and chilli) from the market stalls; banh beo (steamed rice cakes with dried shrimp) from the neighbourhood restaurants; and che (Vietnamese sweet soup desserts) from the street vendors in the evening. A full meal in An Cuu costs approximately £1.50–3 — a fraction of the prices in the Perfume River embankment restaurants.
Several of the finest garden houses in the An Cuu area and the surrounding southern suburbs have been converted into restaurants serving traditional Hue royal cuisine in a garden setting — one of the most atmospheric dining experiences in Vietnam. The An Hien Garden House (a beautifully preserved 19th-century mandarin's residence with a garden of ancient trees and a lotus pond) and the Tinh Gia Vien (a garden house restaurant specialising in vegetarian Hue royal cuisine) are among the most celebrated. The food at these restaurants is elaborate and beautiful — multi-course meals of traditional Hue dishes served on lacquerware and ceramic plates, with traditional music in the background. The garden setting — dining under ancient trees with lotus ponds and carved wooden screens — is unlike anything else in Vietnam.
Tu Dam Pagoda, in the An Cuu area, is one of the most important Buddhist temples in central Vietnam — the headquarters of the Buddhist Association of Thua Thien Hue province and a centre of Vietnamese Buddhist culture and education since the 17th century. The pagoda played a significant role in the 1963 Buddhist crisis (when the South Vietnamese government's persecution of Buddhists led to the self-immolation of the monk Thich Quang Duc in Saigon) and remains an active centre of Buddhist practice and scholarship. The pagoda grounds contain a large bronze bell, a beautiful garden and a series of halls decorated with elaborate lacquerwork and gilded Buddhas. The pagoda is at its most atmospheric during the early morning prayer sessions (5–6am) and during Buddhist festivals.
The southern suburbs of Hue — the area around An Cuu and extending south towards the Royal Tombs — are one of the most rewarding cycling destinations in Vietnam. The terrain is flat, the roads are quiet and shaded, and the landscape is a beautiful mix of rice paddies, vegetable gardens, fish ponds, village streets and the occasional glimpse of the Perfume River. A morning cycling route from An Cuu: south through the village of Thuy Xuan (famous for its incense-making — the village produces the conical incense sticks that are used in temples throughout Vietnam), past the Tomb of Tu Duc, along the Perfume River to the Tomb of Minh Mang, and back through the village of Nam Pho (famous for its banh beo — steamed rice cakes). The route takes 3–4 hours at a leisurely pace and passes through some of the most beautiful and least-touristed parts of Hue.
Thuy Xuan village, 5km south of An Cuu on the road to the Royal Tombs, is famous throughout Vietnam for its traditional incense-making — the village produces the colourful conical incense sticks (huong) that are used in temples, pagodas and family altars throughout the country. The incense is made by hand using traditional methods — bamboo sticks are dipped in a mixture of sawdust, herbs and natural dyes, then dried in the sun in large circular bundles that create extraordinary photographic compositions. Visiting Thuy Xuan is one of the most distinctive experiences in the Hue area — the village is genuinely working (not a tourist performance) and the incense makers are happy to explain their craft. The village is easily accessible by bicycle from An Cuu (20 minutes) and is usually combined with a visit to the nearby Royal Tombs.
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