Fes is Morocco's spiritual and cultural capital — one of the most extraordinary cities in the world and arguably the finest surviving example of a medieval Islamic city anywhere on earth. It is a city that demands time, patience and a willingness to surrender to its labyrinthine complexity, and rewards all three magnificently.

Fes el-Bali, the old medina, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the world's largest car-free urban area — a maze of over 9,000 streets, alleys and cul-de-sacs that has changed remarkably little since the 14th century. Over 300 mosques, 200 hammams, dozens of ancient madrasas and thousands of artisan workshops are crammed into an area of just 2.5 square kilometres. Getting lost is not just inevitable — it is the point.

The Chouara Tanneries are one of the most iconic sights in Morocco — a medieval leather dyeing facility that has been operating in the same way for over 1,000 years, with circular stone vats filled with vivid dyes and workers treading hides by foot. The view from the surrounding leather shop terraces is extraordinary.

The University of al-Qarawiyyin, founded in 859 AD by Fatima al-Fihri, is the world's oldest continuously operating university — a remarkable institution that has been at the heart of Islamic scholarship for over 1,100 years and counts Ibn Khaldun and Ibn Battuta among its alumni.

The Bou Inania Madrasa is the finest example of Marinid architecture in Morocco — extraordinary carved stucco, intricate zellige tilework and beautifully carved cedar wood that represents the absolute pinnacle of medieval Moroccan craftsmanship.

Fes is also the culinary capital of Morocco — the home of bastilla, the finest tagines and the best couscous in the country. Eating in a traditional riad restaurant in the medina is one of the great dining experiences in North Africa.

Fes is most easily reached by train from Casablanca (4 hours) or Rabat (3 hours), or by a 3-hour drive from Marrakesh.