Chefchaouen is one of the most photogenic and magical cities in the world — a small, ancient mountain town in the Rif Mountains of northern Morocco whose streets, staircases, doorways and buildings are painted in every shade of blue and white, creating a dreamlike atmosphere unlike anywhere else on earth.

Founded in 1471 as a small fortress to resist Portuguese invasions, the city grew into a significant trading centre and refuge for Moorish and Jewish exiles from Spain. The distinctive blue paint is said to have been introduced by Jewish refugees in the 1930s, who painted the streets blue to symbolise the sky and heaven. The tradition has been maintained and deepened ever since, and today the entire medina is a symphony of blues — from the palest sky blue to the deepest indigo.

The medina is compact and walkable — you can explore it thoroughly in a day, but most visitors find themselves wandering the same streets repeatedly, discovering new corners and compositions at every turn. The famous blue staircases, flower-filled window boxes and the cats that inhabit every corner make it impossible to take a bad photograph.

Plaza Uta el-Hammam, the main square, is the social heart of the city — lined with cafés and restaurants, with the Grand Mosque and the 15th-century kasbah at either end. The rooftop cafés offer excellent views over the medina.

The Rif Mountains surrounding the city offer excellent hiking — the ascent of Jebel el-Kelaa (1,616m) offers panoramic views, and the Akchour Waterfalls (1 hour away) are among the most spectacular in Morocco. The Talassemtane National Park has numerous hiking trails through cedar forests.

Chefchaouen is best visited as part of a northern Morocco itinerary — it is 3 hours from Fes and 4 hours from Casablanca, and combines beautifully with both cities.